Egypt deserts afford something for everyone and each traveler comes for their own
personal reasons. Desert trips can be what you want it to be. There is no such thing
as a fixed schedule per day or daily itinerary; it’s just time and space you share
with yourself or others in a wilderness of sand, mountains and oasis’s. In the desert
everything is possible but nothing is compulsory.
For adventure you can explore the majesty of the desert on camel or jeep, spend
a night under the stars and take pleasure in a morning dip in the hot springs. It
is a very special experience to be riding a camel in this virgin landscape, to be
moving along with the cadence of this majestic animal for a few days. Other areas
of the desert can only be reached by jeep. A personal encounter with this untouched,
magical desert is a perfect way to feel part of nature and to obtain a sense of
inner calm. Let the star-lit night skies and the silent spaces create your own personal
oasis, an inner peace to take back with you when you return home.
It doesn't really matter if we fully understand the history of how the famous Egyptian
pyramids were made; for centuries people from all walks of life have been fascinated
with incomprehensible man-made structures; equally eccentric are the rock formations
and sand dunes scattered throughout the Western desert. Man and nature have co-existed
here since the stone-age, but the stars, rock formations and sand dunes defy the
calculation of human calendars. Coming face to face with these enormous formations
in the Western desert and entering them will make a lifetime impression on you.
The sand wilderness that lies west of the river Nile is rugged with a unique variety
of landscapes, which cannot be described in words and can hardly be captured in
photographs! The desert has many faces; the mountains are powerfully bold, sometimes
emerging in clear-cut contours of virgin sands or covered in black lava. In the
southern region you'll see immaculate and white limestone mountains in so many different
shapes that you might imagine yourself at a fine art exhibition of sculptures!
The word oasis if often used to describe a place where you can forget the cares
of everyday life, relax rest and renew yourself. Egypt's oases are just that, unspoiled
refuges from the modern world, pockets of civilization in the dramatic setting of
the desert Surrounded by sand and sky; the oasis’s have a sense of timelessness
rare in the 20th century. Oasis was originally an Egyptian word (from the Coptic
ouahe). Egypt oasis's are still among the most sacred in places in the world, each
with a special character of its own. Wherever you stay, you can enjoy the tranquility
of the Bedouin lifestyle, date groves, pigeon towers and blue-washed mud houses.
Fayoum Oasis
The name Fayoum originates from the hieroglyphic word Bayoum, which means "the Sea"
a reference to the large inland lake, Karoun. Fayoum isn't a true oasis since it
depends on Nile water, not underground springs or wells. The ancient Bahr Yussef
canal runs through the center of the city and irrigates the land.
Dakhala
Dakhala is a collection of fourteen different settlements, dominated on its northern
horizon by a wall of rose-colored rock. Fertile cultivated areas growing rice, peanuts
and fruit are dotted between sand dunes along the roads from Farafra and Kharga
in this area of outstanding natural beauty.
The capital, Mut, named after the ancient goddess of the Theban Triad, houses the
Museum of the Inheritance, a traditional house, with an intricate wooden combination
lock. Rooms, with sculpted clay figures, are arranged to display different aspects
of Dakhalan culture and family life. Al-Kasr, about 35 kilometers from Mut, was
originally a Roman settlement, which later became the medieval capital of Dakhala.
The old town is a labyrinth of mud-walled alleys narrowly separating houses with
elaborately carved wooden lintels; there is also an Ayyubid mosque here. You can
climb to the rooftop of the 10th century Madrassa for wonderful views of the surrounding
area. Bir al-Gbel, a palm-fringed salt lake where you can camp and picnic, is on
the road back to Mut.
Other day trips from Mut include the 1st-century Al-Muzawaka tombs and Deit al-Hagar,
a temple that was originally dedicated to the Theban Triad and later rebuilt by
the Romans. After exploring the temple, you can bathe in the hot mineral spring
nearby. You can also visit Bashendi to see Roman tombs and a factory where carpets
are still woven with scenes of Dakhalan life. Nearby is Balaat village, a trading
post with ancient Nubia, archeologists are still uncovering dozens of 6th dynasty
mastabas.
Farafra
Farafra, known as Ta-iht or the 'Land of the Cow' in Pharonic times, is a single
village. The most isolated of the New Valley Oasis, it is renowned for its strong
traditions and godliness. According to folklore, the villagers once lost track of
time and had to send a rider to Dakhala so they could hold the Friday prayers on
the right day.
The oldest part of the village is on a hillside next to a peaceful walled palm grove.
A short distance away there are hot mineral springs at Bir Setta and swimming at
El-Mufid Lake. As in other oasis many of Farafra's houses are painted blue to ward
off evil eyes but some houses are also decorated with landscapes, birds and animals,
the handiwork of local artist, Badr. It is a combination of a house, museum and
studio exhibiting his paintings and ceramics situated in a garden full of sculptures
made from objects found in the surrounding desert. A local merchant, known as Mr.
Socks, sells beautiful hand-knitted camelhair sweaters, socks and scarves.
El Kharga
El Kharga used to be the last but one stop on The Forty Days Road, the infamous
slave-trade route between North Africa and the tropical south. Today, it is the
biggest new valley oasis and its modern city houses 60,000 people, including 1,000
Nubians who moved here after the creation of Lake Nasser.
Outside the main center is the Temple of Hibis; built on the site of an 18th dynasty
settlement of Saites, Persians and Ptolemies; one of the few Persian monuments in
Egypt, the 6th century BC temple is well preserved with painted vultures and huge
relief's of Darius greeting Egyptian gods on the outer walls.
Ten kilometers away, the Necropolis of Al-Bagawat contains 263 mud-brick chapels
with Coptic murals, including the Chapel of Peace with images of Adam and Eve and
the Ark on its dome and the Chapel of the Exodus with frescoes of Pharonic troops
pursuing the Jews led by Moses, out of Egypt. Pharonic monuments include the al-Hhuwaytah
Temple, which dates from 522 BC, and the Temple of Amenebis.
The thermal springs at Bulaq and Nasser villages to the south are famous for water
temperatures of up to 43° Celsius and reputed to be suitable for the treatment of
rheumatism and allergies. Camping facilities are available near both villages.
Bahariya Oasis
Further south is the Bahariya Oasis, the second largest settlement in Kharga. Houses
are designed in traditional Nubian style by Hassan Fathy and remain uninhabited;
local people refused to live in them because of their similarity to tombs and building
stopped in the late 1960s.
Ancient monuments include the Temple of Dush, dedicated to Isis and Serapis. Its
name derives from Kush, the ancient Sudanese capital that traded with Egypt along
the Nile. Archeologists are still unearthing the ancient city of Kysis with which
a temple is associated; and elaborate system of clay pipes and abandoned Christian
church, suggest that Kysis was abandoned when its underground springs dried up but
the exact date remains a mystery.
The White Desert
A trip to the White Desert is something that no visitor to the new valley should
pass up. Travelers coming from Bahariya will cross through the Black Desert, passing
the tiny oasis of El-Hayiz on the way. Nearby there are some Roman ruins, including
a church with Coptic graffiti. Bahariya and Farafra are separated by huge golden
sand dunes, which make a stunning photograph during the journey.
Once through the Al-Sillim Pass you enter the White Desert, a unique landscape of
surreal wind-eroded rock formations that is particularly magical at sunrise or sunset.
Here, as the moon rises over the white crags, it is easier to believe that you're
surrounded by icebergs and snowdrifts or on a lunar landscape than in the middle
of the desert. On moonless nights, you can sit around a driftwood fire as the galaxy
spreads above you and the sky is lit by shooting stars. Camel and jeep trips, including
a hot meal and fresh bread, made in the sand Bedouin-style, can be arranged from
Farafra.
Set in a depression covering over 2000 square kilometers Bahariya Oasis is surrounded
by black hills made up of ferruginous quartzite and dolerite. Most of the villages
and cultivated land can be viewed from the top of the 50-meter high Jebel al-Mi'ysrah,
together with the massive dunes, which threaten to engulf some of the older settlements.
Wildlife is plentiful, especially birds such as White Ears; crops (which only cover
a small percentage of the total area) include dates, olives, apricots, rice and
corn.
Bawiti is the largest village in the oasis; its picturesque hillside quarter overlooks
lush palm groves irrigated by the Ain al-Beshmo, a natural spring hewn from the
rock in Roman times which gushes water at 30° Celsius.
The neighboring village of Al-Qast was built on the remains of a 26th dynasty temple
nearby at Qarat Hilwah; you can still see tombs with paintings dating from the same
period. Famous for its mineral and mineral springs, including Bir Mathar and Bir
al-Ghaba, Bahariya is recognized among local Bedouin for their informal music and
poetry recitals. You can go on desert excursions by day and spend your evenings
relaxing in the cafes smoking shisha, playing backgammon and listening to authentic
Bedouin music. Travelers can now go on either to Siwa, via a new road, or to Farafra,
taking in a night in the White desert en route.
New Valley Oasis
The four New Valley oasis‘s are situated along a dead, prehistoric branch of the
Nile that is dependent on springs and wells tapping water under the desert. Isolated
from each other and from the rest of the outside world these oases have only been
accessible to tourists since the 1980s.
Siwa Oasis
Siwa is considered by many the most inaccessible of all Egypt's oases until very
recently, is also one of the most fascinating. On the edge of the Great Sand Sea,
its rich history includes a visit from Alexander the Great to consult the Oracle
of Amun in 331 BC.
Siwans have their own culture and customs and they speak a Berberf language, Wiwi,
rather than Arabic. Many women still wear traditional costumes and silver jewelry
like those displayed in the traditional Siwan House museum in the town center. Siwa
remains one of the best places to buy jewelry, rugs, baskets and traditional robes
and headdresses decorated with antique coins.
Shali, founded in 1203, superseded the original settlement, Aghurmi. Built of salt-impregnated
mud of kharsif, the fortress-like community expanded upwards rather than outwards.
It is situated among thick palm groves, walled gardens and olive orchards, with
numerous freshwater springs and salt lakes.
You can climb through the ruins of the old city for magnificent views of the entire
oasis. Walk, hire a bicycle or ride in a caretta (donkey cart) to outlying sights
and bathing places. These include 26th Dynasty tombs with murals and inscriptions
at Jebel al-Mawta (The Hill of the Dead) and the Oracle of Amun, and acropolis temple
dating from around 550 BC.
Near the Oracle are the ruins of the Amun temple and the famous Cleopatra Bath,
a deep pool of bubbling water where you can bath in. Another favorite bathing spot
is Fatnis Island on the salt lake of Birket Siwa, which is surrounded by palm trees
and beautiful scenery.